The accuracy of the first mechanical clocks depended largely on the Earth's gravity and ambient temperature. The temperature factor was excluded in the early twentieth century by replacing ordinary parts with more specific of stable alloys, and the problem with the attraction of the Earth was solved by the scientist Breguet in 1795. He invented a very complex and revolutionary mechanism at that time - the tourbillon.
So, tourbillon in watch - what is it? Tourbillon (French "whirlwind") is a complex mechanism that largely compensates for gravity. A special rotating platform is equipped with a trigger and a wheel for balancing.
A bit of history
The design, rotating around its axis and making about one revolution per minute, is able to change the center of gravity of the entire clockwork. Thus, every half minute the clock is in a hurry, and the remaining half minute is behind, thereby compensating for the Earth's gravity, which affects the error of the course.
At that time, watches with a tourbillon were not as successful as they are now. Because how to make such a complex mechanism was only within the power of a very experienced and skilled watchmaker, which means that it cost quite expensive.
Toward the end of the twentieth century, when the watch acquired the status of an indicator of prestige and wealth of the owner, professional watchmakers and brands turned their attention to the tourbillon. A wristwatch with such a twist became a symbol of the elite, which was put on display in every possible way.
Chronometer appeal
The device, which deceived the force of gravity, attracted not only eminent watchmakers, but also the richest buyers, who were ready to pay a lot of money to confirm their status and belong to something special.
From the hands of Swiss, English, French and other European masters came the most expensive and exclusive watches with a tourbillon. The price of such models could range from $ 200 thousand to $ 3 million and, of course, not everyone could afford such a luxury.
Alternative to Europe
The Chinese watch industry offers more or less reasonable prices, although sometimes understanding its products is no easier than in Chinese writing. The country produces these complex mechanisms by tens of thousands, and they usually make tourbillon watches there - copies of models of famous brands, often passing them off as originals. The most successful models worthy of attention can boast only a few companies.
The relative cheapness of the products of the Chinese watch industry in comparison with the European one allowed the first to increase production and sales, and at the same time (in some cases) improve the quality of its goods.
Among the incredibly large number of watch factories, there are several that deserve attention: Sea-Gull, Fiyta, Beijing Watch Factory, Longio Watch Co and Liaoning Watch Factory. Let’s try to consider and sort out the products of these brands in terms of price and quality.
Sea-gull
This company is a pioneer in the manufacture of watchmaking in China. Sea-Gull began its work in the middle of the twentieth century, and released the first watch with a tourbillon in 2005. A significant part of the company's products is purchased unassembled by third-party customers, after which the watch is assembled in a different place (eboshe).
The factory is famous for developing one of the world's most popular tourbillons ST8000 and the flagship that wears this mechanism - Perpetual.
The company was one of the first in China to create a double tourbillon chronometer. The ST8080GB model was awarded several awards at the Baselworld exhibition and immediately got to the pages of magazines, where it was noticed by the “right” audience.
The price of Sea-Gull tourbillons starts at $ 5 thousand for a model in a steel case, from $ 10 thousand for gold, and for a more expensive case and a double mechanism you will have to pay $ 30 thousand.
They speak of Chinese ST80 models only in a positive way, and some connoisseurs of tourbillons still do not see any differences from similar European mechanisms.
Fiyta
The company Fiyta not only understood and understood what a tourbillon is in a watch, but also introduced to the whole world a completely new design vision of such movements.
The factory began its history in 1987 by the merger of several companies for the production of watch movements into one. The brand has its own stand at the famous Baselworld exhibition, and over the past few years it has managed to acquire its own Swiss company Montres Chouriet SA.
Fiyata is famous in its country for producing a tourbillon watch for Chinese cosmonauts, and most recently it has manufactured a unique movement in a gold frame, dedicating it to the 60th anniversary of the PRC. All factory chronometers look peculiar, causing the interest of many fans and watchmakers.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the Square Table Tourbillon model, which “grabbed” many awards at exhibitions and was recognized by connoisseurs of tourbillons. Reviews about the model are rather flattering, and the main admirers of the original design of Fiyyat are fans of high-tech and avant-garde styles. Conservatives look down on all brand lines, calling them too catchy and youthful, excluding solidity and wealth.
Prices for the Fiyta lineup start at $ 3,000 and end around $ 50,000, depending on the case and the quality of the filling of the chronometer.
Beijing Watch Factory
The factory, like the aforementioned, is one of the dinosaurs of the watch industry in China. It was founded in 1958 by the merger of two little-known companies. Already at the beginning of the XXI century the whole “watch" society heard about it.
Enamel decoration and ultra-thin engraving remain a hallmark of the brand. Craftsmen and factory engineers did not stop there and began to decorate not only dials, platinum and bridges, but even such seemingly inaccessible things as clock hands.
The materials from which the Beijing Watch Factory models are made are limited to three types: steel, gold and platinum. Judging by the reviews, the brand's models are appreciated by lovers of antiquity and exotic art, and the younger generation bypasses the factory’s products, preferring something catchy and stylish.
The simplest watch with a tourbillon from Beijing Watch Factory will cost $ 1.8 thousand, more than $ 10 thousand will have to be paid for an expensive frame and filling.
Longio watch co
A fairly young Hong Kong company confidently entrenched in the market for mechanical watches. Looking at its flagships, we can safely assume that factory engineers weekly study the film "Transformers" in search of inspiration.
One of the company's most memorable models is the Telamon watch. The massive and heavy-duty chronometer, equipped with a minute tourbillon, is more suitable for diving than for small talk. The water resistance of the watch can withstand a depth of 1000 meters, while having a power reserve of 65 hours.
The mechanisms of almost all chronometers are machined on Liaoning Watch Factory machines using the globally recognized Technitime TT791.50 calibers. This design received a well-deserved third place at the exhibition “Tourbillon of the Year 2011”.
They are talking about the Longio lineups more or less tolerably: some do not like massiveness and catchiness, while others, on the contrary, consider this an interesting and inspiring style that allows them to reveal their “I”.
Prices, like in other factories, depend on the frame and filling. A simple option will cost about $ 2 thousand, and the same Telamon will cost about $ 8 thousand.
Summarizing
In addition to the above brands and factories, you can find many companies that do not hesitate to use tourbillon eboshe to produce fakes. It is worth looking for a number of other companies (not necessarily Chinese) that are more or less responsible in their approach to the production of timepieces and copyright.
Maybe a watch of this kind does not differ in its skillful design or trouble-free filling, but the only thing they definitely attract their buyer is the price. Agree that the model for $ 100-200 for a simple layman looks much more interesting than the original brand for $ 10 thousand.