The coat in our time should not only be warm and comfortable clothes, but also be a beautiful and original element of the wardrobe. Let’s try to understand what a modern coat fabric is, what requirements are placed on it by designers.
If earlier winter and demi-season clothes were considered to be female elements of the wardrobe, now you can see this kind of outerwear on men in harsh winters, inclement autumn and even on a hot summer day! Coat fabric with pile is relevant in the cold season, cotton is a hit of the summer. After the appearance of duplicate materials, the technology of making coats changed significantly, the amount of manual work decreased significantly, many operations associated with the creation of outerwear became automatic. Modern equipment allows the fabric for coats to turn into finished products in just 4-8 days. Glueless technology is used when sewing premium products. For such models cashmere coat is mainly used, the cost of products is from $ 1,300, the time spent on sewing increases by 3-5 times.
To obtain a coat of perfect quality, it is important to choose the right material, lining, as well as insulation for the future element of outerwear. Let us analyze the basic materials that are used today in sewing men's coats. Before you go to the store to buy fabric for a coat, you need to study the rules of its choice.
For the sewing of men's options for warm clothes, a wide variety of fabrics are used that have increased wear resistance, as well as good heat-shielding characteristics. Coat fabric is currently classified into women's, children's, and men's fabrics. There is a division according to the seasons into demi-season, summer, winter materials. Coat fabric is required to a greater extent when sewing demi-season and winter products. The most stringent requirements are imposed on the heat-shielding characteristics of
demi-season coats, which do not require the use of special insulation. Winter has an additional warming layer under the upper.
Coat fabric, which is chosen for the manufacture of winter products, in addition to heat-shielding qualities, should be beautiful, light, have good water-repellent characteristics.
How are coat fabrics classified?
Materials are made from different raw materials and are divided into:
- wool fabric (in its pure form, it has recently been almost never used);
- coat cotton fabrics ;
In turn, coarse wool is further divided into:
- worsted;
- finecloth;
- rough cloth;
- fine-woolen drapes.
About modern coat materials
Coat woolen fabrics are currently presented in a wide assortment. They are most often used for sewing demi-season and winter models.
High-quality Italian coat fabrics have managed to gain popularity in the Russian market due to their excellent external qualities and technical characteristics. For example, worsted Italian fabrics can be pure-woolen, that is, contain more than 90% of a natural strand, or half-woolen (contain 50-90%). Among pure-wool, leadership belongs to the boucle, beaver, gabardine, tweed.
What is gabardine?
Gabardine is called a fabric with a diagonal weave. In the production of gabardine, twisted yarn is used. Such fabrics are loose, tough, suitable for sewing women's and men's summer coats. When creating gabardine, modern manufacturers use the processing of materials with special water-repellent impregnations, which increases the operational characteristics of this type of coat fabric.
What is a boucle?
Boucle is a coarse plain-weave fabric made from fancy yarn, which has large knots located in the base or in the weft, which gives a lumpy structure. Part of the boucle is created from twisted yarn in the weft and base, finely weaved weave is used. It is not resistant to mechanical damage, any tightening, elongated hinges will spoil the external characteristics of this material.
What is tweed?
Tweed is called a fabric that has a melange effect, as well as a rough characteristic surface. It is comfortable and pleasant to wear, resistant to ultraviolet radiation, elastic, resistant to moths. Its name is due to the river flowing in Scotland.
Alpaca
Coat alpaca fabric is appreciated quite high, as it has excellent performance. Warm clothes made of such wool are pleasant to the touch, have increased wear resistance, and are not able to cause allergic reactions. As practice shows, it has healing characteristics, and is therefore recommended for people with joint problems.
What is a beaver?
A beaver is a dense and stiff woolen fabric that has a standing short, combed pile on the front of the fabric.
Camel Wool
Camel hair is the fluff or undercoat of an ordinary one-humped camel. Many manufacturers do not stain this material, then it has a light brown color. Vigone is usually called material made from llama wool, common in Latin America. The raw material is combed out, the animal is not trimmed. Coats made of such a fabric are characterized by increased strength, softness, and excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
Wool Worsted Fabrics
If the fabric contains not only natural wool, but also has the addition of kapron, lavsan, nitron, they are considered half-woolen worsted coat materials. An example is cashmere. This chic, refined, expensive material is made from the undercoat of cashmere goats, the feathers are plucked out manually (because of this the price is so high).
Cashmere raw materials have several threads, the average thickness of which is 13-20 microns (2 times thinner than a human hair), and therefore, after touching, you can feel softness. This material perfectly retains heat, practically does not cause allergies, slightly dirty. The highest quality and most expensive cashmere fluff is made in Mongolia and China. Among the disadvantages of the natural version, mention can be made of the appearance of spools during socks.
Fine cloth coats
These are half-woolen and pure-wool fabrics, the manufacture of which uses single and hardware twisted pure-wool yarn. Create them with finely crocheted, twill or plain weave. The leading position among the group is occupied by cloth and drape.
Drapes are considered to be heavy fabrics, which have a significant bump, so their surface is covered with a felt-like covering. There is a pile on the front side, this is how the underside and the front side of the material are distinguished. Currently, manufacturers offer single-layer and double-layer drapes, with a combined or simple weave.
Among fine-drapery drapes, flakone, ratin, and velor should be noted. They are also often found in stores, but in popularity they are significantly inferior to those described above.
It is worth noting that store shelves are always filled with many coat options. This situation is understandable. So, for example, the price of a mobile phone may differ by several dozen times for the cheapest and most expensive. In the same way, in the situation with the choice of material for making a coat, someone can afford branded sewing from cashmere, and someone will prefer the majority of cheaper options, given the main property - warmth in winter. Of course, expensive fabrics retain heat better, but sometimes this improvement is not worth the overpaid money - look at the high-quality, but at the same time affordable coat, which can be bought for the same amount.