Going every day to work, study or walk, we do not attach much importance to buttons on clothes. They have become such a familiar and everyday accessory that sometimes you just don’t notice them and fasten by inertia. But the buttons have a very interesting and rich history. Let's get to know this type of fastener.
Button semantics
In Russian, this word refers to “scarecrow”, “scarecrow”, “scare”. This is due to the fact that the Slavs attributed the protective and awesome function to the button. Also, according to Dahl’s dictionary, the name “scarecrow” has long been preserved in Russian dialects. So called a special accessory bell, which was attached to the collar or hung on a chain. From the ancient Sanskrit “pug” - this is “whip”, and “Vitsa” - “rod”, “rod”, “whip”. And it turned out that the button was called a puffer, a whip or a button. That is, there was also a deterrent function.
In English, a “button” ( button ) means “bud” - an unopened flower. This suggests that in Western Europe, small details of clothing performed not a fastening, but an aesthetic, decorative function. According to the Roman interpretation, there were consonant words with an emphasis on the first syllable: "loaf", "boton" and "botao". They meant “pierce”, “pierce”, “squeeze through”.
The “button” in Arabic is a homonym for roses and sounds like “zhrah”. But from the ancient Persian translation, this word means "gold." It can be assumed that in ancient times, buttons in those places symbolized the sun, and therefore they were cast exclusively from precious metals.
Varieties
Due to the fact that the button has a very rich history, this element of clothing today is presented in all kinds of colors and shapes. The most common are flat round options. But you can also find convex, spherical, oval, cylindrical, triangular, square, in the form of animals and other buttons. Each form gives a unique style, so fashion designers and needlewomen carefully choose buttons so that they fit with the fabric and style of clothing.
Elements with two or four through holes are in great demand, less often with three. For example, these mother-of-pearl buttons have become the distinction of Van Laak men's shirts. Fasteners with one hole are through (similar to flat beads) or have an eyelet, for which they are fastened with threads. A variety for jeans is not sewn, but installed on clothes. This button has a solid stud-nail and a floating hat. There is also a Canadian. It has holes and two oblong slots, through which it is attached with a tape.
In addition to tight, buttons vary in size. Large and thick fasteners sew on thick fabrics and outerwear. Thin and small mother-of-pearl buttons are ideal for lightweight materials.
Clasp Features
This element of clothing has been changing throughout history. And as a result, it turned out that the buttons differ in purpose. What functions can they perform?
1. Utilitarian. That is, this is the initial role of the fastener, the fastening of clothing parts.
2. Informational. Using a button, you can determine the position or status.
3. The magic. All kinds of talismans and charms were made of buttons.
4. Decorative. Sometimes clasps are sewn as a decoration.
Let us consider in more detail what is the history of the appearance of the button and what modifications it underwent over time.
Ancient clasps
Initially, primitive people did not use buttons, but tied the ends of their clothes with a knot or threaded one piece into the hole of another. Later they guessed to use belts, lacing and safety pins made from seeds, sticks, pebbles, spikes of plants and other improvised materials. In ancient Egypt, the method of fastening with buckles was already popular. The oldest finds date back to 2800 BC.
Later (around 2000 BC), people began to make metal and clay shapeless balls with holes. But some instances were so neat and accurate that they could be attached with a thread. Buttons made of shells were also found, which were rather used as jewelry. What is noteworthy, clasps made from the shell of mollusks are popular to this day.
According to archaeologists, stone finds dating back to 1500 BC can be considered functional. That is, people used them for fastening, and not as decorations like shells. Another material available is wood. But the elements of clothing from him were not found. One can only assume that wooden buttons were also common. But due to its properties, it simply rotted and did not survive until our time.
Buttons like amulets
Today, few people remember that the elements of clothing were important magical charms that frightened off hostile forces. Among them are pebbles, beads, embroideries, bells and pseudo-fasteners, which were attached to a chain or collar. For example, a shirt with a large red button was found in Novgorod. She did not fasten anything and certainly did not serve as decoration. The red color among the Slavs frightened off evil spirits and was popular. Therefore, it can be argued that the button in this case was a talisman. Among the Chinese, magical motifs include all kinds of fastener knots, of which the most famous is the “monkey fist”.
Also in hollow metal or wooden buttons was placed a pellet, a round pebble or a piece of tin, which, when moving, made a muffled sound, like a bells. They as amulets were placed on a chain or sewn to clothes. Even as talismans used flat kruglyashi with four holes. Here, the sewing of such a button was of great importance. For example, to attract wealth, stitches need to be made in the form of the letter Z, to preserve good health and beauty - in the form of a cross.
Innovative ideas
In the 16th century, Venetian craftsmen began to make buttons using the latest technology. The point was that the hot glass mold was quickly lowered into ice water and taken out. Due to the temperature difference, numerous cracks have formed on the product. They were again filled with glass, and as a result of the refraction of light, the button shimmered with bright colors, like a gem. It was a real revolution!
A century later, Florentine craftsmen came up with a mosaic design for a button. History has not yet seen such a breakthrough in the design of fasteners. Masters on a silver or gold frame laid out tiny pieces of glass or stone in a chaotic manner, but it turned out very beautifully. Later, under the glass top of the clasp, they began to lay multi-colored foil. And already in the 18th century enamel buttons with miniatures copied from the works of artists Watteau and Boucher came into fashion. Since that time, the art of decorating small details of clothing has reached its peak.
Button as a business card
In pre-Petrine Russia, there was much to learn about fasteners about a person. The number of buttons, their shape, the patterns or signs depicted on them spoke of position, status, proximity to power or merit. For each type of clothing, the number of buttons was strictly defined. For example, 8, 11, 13-16 fasteners were sewn on a fur coat, and 3, 8, 10-13, 19 on the caftan. Most of the buttons were supposed to be on tegilai, a quilted armor with a short sleeve, in which the warriors walked. The material of the product also mattered. For example, the clothes of Ivan the Terrible relied on a golden button. Moreover, on one caftan it was presented in the amount of 48 pieces, and on the other 68 such fasteners shone.
Military ranks could also be distinguished by buttons. For officers they were silver or gold, and for soldiers they were bronze, copper, tin or brass. The guards and generals on the clasps had emblems, that is, with an eagle. And the regiments led by representatives of the imperial family wore buttons depicting the crown. Subsequently, the symbolic role continued to develop. The button could tell what profession a person belongs to: a military man, a government official, a scientist, and so on. Some logos are used in our time. This is a golden button with an anchor on sea uniforms and with oak branches at foresters.
Clasps in men's and women's suits
It is noteworthy that buttons have long been the privilege of men. Moreover, on their robes, this small detail was found only on the front side to the right. The fact is that men dressed themselves and it was more convenient to fasten in front.
Women were also helped to dress up as maids. There were dresses that had a corset, and even a button skirt. One can imagine that the dressing procedure could take a long time. So that the maids did not turn around before the eyes of the hostess, all the fasteners on the dresses were placed on the back. Moreover, they were sewn on the left side. This was explained by the fact that it was more convenient for the maid to fasten, which means that the housewife could be put on faster.
Later, the girls began to dress themselves, but, surprisingly, the differences in the location of the fasteners have survived to this day. Please note that the buttons on men's shirts are on the right, and on women's shirts on the left.
Buttons as decorations
Later, the clasps in the women's outfit began to perform not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one. It was then that the “button boom” happened. The girls tried to decorate their entire dress with small circles. And since then all the accessories were metal, the poor fashionistas had to rub it to shine for hours. So there were fasteners, covered with fabric.
Buttons were big and expensive at that time. They were made of silver, gold, porcelain and decorated with precious stones. Such a dowry was inherited and changed from one dress to another. And no wonder, because the clothes themselves could cost four thousand, and buttons - eight.
Modern buttons
In the 19th century, it was already ceased to manually manufacture accessories, the whole process was mechanized. Therefore, the buttons fell in price and became available to ordinary people. And in the 20th century, plastic spread around the world. From its various types it was possible to make anything and create any curly shape. A button denim skirt has also become popular among girls. Special riveting fasteners came into fashion with her.
Today, buttons are often found as fasteners and as decor on shirts, coats, hats, swimwear and other clothes. Moreover, they began to be used as material for creativity. They are decorated with ballet shoes, vases, belts, all kinds of crafts, from them create floral arrangements and even paintings.
Interesting Facts
- The richest suit with buttons was the French king Francis. Over 13.5 thousand pieces were sewn to it.
- A mandatory attribute of the cuff of a man’s shirt is a small button. It was sewn so that it would be inconvenient for soldiers to wipe their sleeves.
- Buttons on the uniforms of the Napoleonic army turned out to be the most unreliable. They were made of aluminum and simply crumbled in severe frost.
- Louis XIV spent over six million dollars on fasteners in his entire life. He loved them so much.
- In England, there has long been a tradition of collecting the most beautiful buttons on a fishing line or thread. When there are 999, the girl will find her other half.
In conclusion
Unfortunately, the name of the person who came up with the buttons, the story did not save. Although he, as the inventor of the wheel, definitely deserves a monument. Times change, and fasteners as clothing connectors are in the background. They are already being replaced with more convenient options: zippers and Velcro. Although in some cases this is unjustified. After all, buttons are easier to replace if they come off or just want to update clothes.